As we headed northeast from Royan to Saumur in the Loire Valley and away from the water, the landscape assumed a very winter look. Not to far into this journey, we began to see frost on the pumpkin, a sheen of ice on the ponds, salt on the road and the little bell in the car (the one that took us so long to figure out last year in Croatia), begining to chime a warning for verglas (road ice). Nothing brings a scare to a Floridian at the wheel of a car than veriglas and salt on the road. Fortunately the verglas did not materalize (this time).
Our orginal plan had to been to spend at least a week in Saumur, but the apartment we wanted was occupied and the allure of the ocean kept us from seeking an alternative. It would have been a great choice. What a nice town! Everyone from the girls at the tourist office, to Rene Dalac and his Chinese wife, owners of the Hotel Voluney (http://www.levolnoney.com/) to the lady at Combier Liquers, rated as some of the nices people we have met. And the town was the perfect size and beautiful on the Loire river. They even rolled out the red carpet for Vicki and turned on the Christmas lights.
Rene was an old Asia hand, so we had mutual stories of interest to tell. He could not do enough for us in our short stay in his hotel. One of his great recommendations was to visit the Combier Liquer factory. It was a short walk down the street so we popped in for a few quick shots. They make fruit liqours, a grand marinier and a triple sec that are excellent. The processing center was closed to tours but the lady in the store gave us the whole tour anyway. A rather young plant for france, dating from the mid 1800's. The copper refining pots that Michael was shinning for the Christmas open house where from 1901. All their fruits are fresh from the Loire valley area. Despite being very busy, the young lady, part of the owning family, seemed to have all the time in the world just for us. Their main market is export to the USA.....or was.
The next day, despite a great urge to stay, we pressed on. The day went from beautiful sunshine to fog, depending on our location to the river. There are thousands of châteauxs in France and this is an area with some of the grandest. (these are just quick shots as we drove by)
We decided we should visit at least one and one of the grandest is Chambord. Started in the 1600's and sold to the french government in 1930, it has been the home to kings, including the exciled king of hungary in the 1700's and abandoned for long periods of times. Since "the word Chambord is used in advertising, sepacially in America, to indicate luxury" , according to the brochure and is one of the largest, we chose it to visit. The views where great, especially of the gardens, so I decided to share them with you.
We actually encounted other tourist here. A bus of Japanese students and 4 Americans, Jacob, his wife Precious and her parents Illen and Earl. Jacob and Precious do not really qualify as tourist since they have lived in France for 8 years. He is a professional basketball player here (yep, pro-basketball and it is pretty popular). Lucky for us, our Picaso has lights that flash with the unlock button or we may have never found it in the growded parking lot.
It was dark by the time we got to our hotel in Blois. A quick cold walk around another nice town and dinner at Chez Vicki and that was a day. So, far in 2 days, we had covered less than half of a 9 hour trip to our destination. Tomorrow we should get an early start and be on the road by 9AM.
Ok, this is a very rare picture. That is the Princess Vic standing in front of a sunriase! Not something she gets to see often. Granted, the picture was taken at 8:15AM.
Today would be a road day with some great winter scenery and a stop in Montargis for a quick lunch and walk around the Marchi de Noel. There we found one of our favorite vendors this time of year...the vin chaud (hot wine) man.
We arrived in Hautvillers late afternoon. A nice, but cold place, on a hill looking out over the valley toward Eperney and all the grapes of the champagne houses. The sun went down..........and then the freezing rain began.
ps: want to know what that Steak the Cheval looks like? Tastes like chicken for some reason, best served with a cold beer. (just for you Bob)
Most travel is best of all in the anticipation or the remembering; the reality has more to do with losing your luggage.
--Regina Nadelson
